Linen is a plant-based fabric derived from flax, highly regarded for being diverse, environmentally friendly and sustainable. Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring for its lightweight, absorbent and breathable characteristics, making it ideal for warmer weather and travel. Naturally linen has coolness when touched, as the flax fibre is a good conductor.
The flax plant grows best in the north of France, in Belgium and in the Netherlands. This region’s rich soil and mild North Sea climate, where sun and rain alternate, are ideal for growing a fibre that is known worldwide for its quality. We rely on long established links to flax arming cooperatives in both France and Belgium. All flax fibre is blended for optimum spinning, with all yarns coming from European sources.
Unfortunately 95% of natural dyes are not viable for commercial apparel production due to availability, but also because they will not meet colour and light fastness requirements . We use reactive dyestuffs and our method of dyeing is cold pad batch, so there is minimal water usage, compared to exhaust dyeing.
Linen remains a luxury fabric due to the painstaking care needed to prepare the fibres. These come from the blue-flowered flax plant. The flax fibres we source are rain-fed as opposed to irrigated, which in turn uses significantly less water. If linen was replaced with cotton cultivation, it would require an extra 650.000 million cubic meters of water. Flax crops do not require irrigation (extra water), the crop can grow with rain fall alone.
Every year, flax growing in Europe captures 250,000 tonnes of CO2 – saving emissions equivalent to driving a small car around the world 62,000 times.
Flax is fully recyclable and biodegradable; therefore impact on the environment is minimal. Every part of the plant is used, so there is no waste.
Our pure linen across our tailoring is 228gsm , 6.7oz/sq yd and spun by a specialised mill in Ireland. Irish mills infamously weave linen slightly coarser than Italian mills, making the cloth slightly denser, feel heavier and sharper. Being a natural fibre, linen has natural imperfections referred to as slub in cloth, adding uniqueness to each garment.
Linen is a cloth that has no natural stretch, so is accustomed to wrinkling which gives it a unique and relaxed personality, making it a versatile option for more informal occasions. For some, a wrinkled linen jacket possesses an element of nonchalant-ness and ‘sprezzatura’ elegance.
Because linen is a hardy fibre it can be made in an open weave structure and therefore making it breathable. It also is less likely to misshape and wear like other more delicate cloths and generally wears better over time. Superior quality linen will become softer and silkier over time, while low quality linen will retain its rigid and rough texture and will lose its shape.
By working with expert mills, we ensure the premium nature and rich colour of our cloth wont fade over time. We believe that allows you to shop more consciously and less frequently, allowing you to wear our pieces and enjoy life's pleasures over several summers.
Our Chela linen jacket and trouser paired with our Nairobi shirt, is our favourite way to dress up elegantly.
Country of Origin:
- Flax and linen fibres - France and Belgium
- Linen weaving and dyeing - Ireland
- Cutting, sewing and finishing - Italy